Fantasy Dinner Guest - Julian Cope

This in the first in a little series for this blog, that I've tentatively named "Fantasy Dinner Guest", although I'm sure I'll think of a better title for it later.  The premise is simple - if I had the opportunity to cook for a famous person that I admire (for whatever reason), what I would dish up.  So I'm kicking off the series with a long-standing musical hero of mine (and Tamworth's greatest export),  Julian Cope:

If you're not a Copehead, just look him up on Wikipedia if you want a potted history of his career!  But I think that the following are a more interesting way to get to know his music, his writing and about what he stands for:

Essential reading and listening:

Head Heritage, Julian's official website.  This has what you'd expect, with the usual details of tour dates and releases but unusually, Julian and his wife Dorian (a music fan and historian in her own right) are closely involved in maintaining the site and post regular updates.  Julian has obviously never lost his enthusiasm for discovering new music (particularly heartening that he's still open-minded about this, as he's now in his early 50s) and his monthly update, "Address Druidon", includes reviews of albums that he's just discovered.  It also is highly political, although not in a party political sense.  Whilst Julian and I part company when it comes to some of the methods he advocates to draw attention to issues he cares about (he's certainly more of an anarchist than I am), we are united in our hatred of cruelty, greed, ignorance and people just generally fucking up the planet.

"Head On" and "Repossessed" (these are now published together in the same volume, following the acclaim with which "Head On" was received on its initial publication), Julian's two volumes of autobiography. "Head On" deals with Julian's early musical career with The Teardrop Explodes in the early '80s and the subsequent rows and disillusionment that led to their split.  It's a bitchy and entertaining account of the Liverpool music scene at that time, with cameos from people who went on to be famous in their own right, including Ian McCulloch, Bill Drummond, Pete Wylie, Pete Burns, Holly Johnson and the scene's youngest hanger-on, Courtney Love (referred to only as "The Adolescent").  There is also a (thankfully brief) account of his having sex in a broom cupboard with Lydia Lunch (yikes) and more romantically, the story of how he met his second wife (and soul mate), Dorian.  The issue of his cavalier treatment of his first wife, Cathy (who he dumped in order to pursue a transatlantic relationship with Dorian) is sidestepped but he's forced to face up to this in a confrontational interview with a local radio DJ that is described in the second volume, "Repossessed".  "Repossessed" covers the period immediately following The Teardrop Explodes' split through to the early years of Julian's solo career.  Julian achieves a commerical peak with the successful 1987 album "Saint Julian" but the book ends in 1988 with his disappointment at the critical reception of the follow-up album "My Nation Underground" (which he freely admits contains some of his weakest work).  "Repossessed" is my favourite of the two volumes because as well as containing accounts of how Julian's early solo songs came to be, there is a lot in it that is touchingly personal.  Julian describes how his fear of the solo songs he wrote being derided by the music industry that he was no longer part of led to an inertia bordering on agoraphobia.  He is brutally honest about this paranoia, which was certainly made worse by his out of control drug abuse during this period.  It certainly isn't all gloom and being a hermit though: I particularly enjoyed the account of his increasing obsession with collecting vintage toy cars (well, we've all got to have a hobby).

"The Modern Antiquarian" (first published 1998).  As well as being a musician and social commentator, Julian has developed a parallel career as a historian specialising in megalithic Britain, particularly pre-Christian belief systems.  "The Modern Antiquarian" was eight years in the making and was based on an ambitious task: to visit every megalithic site (typically stone circles and burial mounds but pretty much everywhere of Pagan significance) in England, Scotland and Wales.  The fact that it was very much a Cope family undertaking (Dorian and his daughters, Albany and Avalon, who were toddlers at the time came along too) is particularly impressive.  Lovingly packaged, this hefty book is split into two sections.  The first part is a series of essays about the development and decline of goddess worship in Britain and how this shaped the landscape.  The second is a colour-coded gazeteer of the sites (complete with OS Map grid references), with photographs and personal reflections.  "The Modern Antiquarian" was published to enthusiastic reviews (from professional historians as well as readers new to the genre) and led to Julian being sought after as a guest speaker, delivering lectures on his studies at the British Museum!  There was a BBC documentary based on "The Modern Antiquarian" (which you can still check out on YouTube), of which Julian has said since that he didn't enjoy making (a shame, as I think he's a natural as a TV presenter).  "The Modern Antiquarian" has remained in print ever since it was first published and naturally enough was followed by "The Megalithic European", which covered megalithic sites in other European countries.

"Fried" (1984) was Julian's second solo album, recorded at the height of his self-imposed reclusiveness in the countryside near Tamworth - crueller critics thought that title referred to the state of his brain after considerable LSD experimentation.  Nontheless, it contains some great songs, like "Reynard the Fox", "Sunspots" and "Land Of Fear" (the latter being re-recorded for his 1995 album "20 Mothers") which hint at the greatness yet to come.

"Droolian" (1990), along with "Skellington" (recorded the same year) are both now rarities and very lo-fi, being recorded over short periods, some songs included being first takes.  "Skellington" was recorded illicitly in secret sessions when Julian was supposed to be recording "My Nation Underground", as something closer to what he wanted to achieve rather than toeing the line with what Island Records wanted (Island eventually dropped Julian after "Jehovahkill" in 1992).  "Droolian" was released only in Texas (on a small label, Mofoco) and the profits were used to aid of one of Cope’s heroes, the former 13th Floor Elevators frontman Roky Erickson, who at that time was in jail without legal representation.  The dog on the sleeve cover of "Droolian" is Smelvin Cope, described by Julian in "Repossessed" as a "weiner" (charming).

The following were later described as a trilogy of albums with the theme of the various ways that the human race is destroying itself and the planet.  I know it sounds dangerously hippy but bear with me - Julian's one pissed off guy here, producing some of his best songs.  A lone voice of common sense in the wilderness:

"Peggy Suicide" (1991) - dealing with mankind's damage of the environment (Peggy Suicide is the female embodiment of Planet Earth - sort of like Mother Nature - this album marks the start of Julian's awareness of goddess worship, a theme he returns to a lot).

"Jehovahkill" (1992) - dealing with the damaging effects of patriarchical Judeo-Christian organised religion (so not one to play when the vicar comes round).

"Autogeddon" (1994) - dealing with the increase in car culture in the Western world and the damaging effects on the environment.

Nowadays, Julian releases music on his own Head Heritage label and has several side projects under the names Queen Elizabeth, Brain Donor and most recently, Black Sheep.  These sound very different from the typically psychedelic pop that most people associate with Julian Cope - much heavier hard-edged garage rock.  However, it's not just a group of middle-aged blokes living out their rock star fantasies, as the lyrics are more topical and political than ever before.  However, "You Gotta Problem With Me" (2007) was something of return to the style of his early solo work: a massively ambitious double album using mellotron keyboards and orchestral percussion.

This is just a fragment of Julian's work (and I haven't even mentioned his writings about cult music like "Japrocksampler" and "Krautrocksampler"), which I'm still discovering.  I strongly recommend going to seeing him play live - he typically is on stage without any support band for at least 2 hours!  This sounds like it would be an interminably long and tedious set but it's not - Julian chats to the audience and plays songs from all stages of his career, usually backed by long-standing collaborators like the massively talented Donald Ross-Skinner and Thighpaulsandra.

Why I chose the menu:

Julian came to be a vegetarian relatively late in life, being brought up by Welsh parents used to having to be thrifty when it came to food, which usually meant eating the cheapest cuts of meat and offal (he refers to this in this 2000 interview and also in "Repossessed").  So I chose Glamorgan Sausages as a veggie-friendly nod to his Welsh heritage but also because it's lovely comfort food and not too unhealthy.  The accompanying Caramelised Red Onion Chutney gives it a bit of a kick.  I love the fact that in the sleeve notes to Julian's 1995 album "20 Mothers", he mentioned that he made his own jam from the plums growing in his garden.  I just thought that the fact he didn't care about whether or not he might be thought uncool or not rock 'n' roll for doing so was brilliant.  So in a salute to this admirable insousiance, I've made a steamed Jam Sponge for dessert, using my home-made Plum and Elderberry Jam (I thought he'd approve of Mother Nature giving me a helping hand, as both the plums and the elderberries were foraged from ones growing wild).  It's a feast for any veggie that you love, or indeed anyone that you love.

Glamorgan Sausages (I found this particular recipe on the Welsh Tourist Board website but various versions of it abound everywhere - serves 4)

200g fresh white breadcrumbs (you can buy ready-made dried breadcrumbs but they're easy to make - either rub the bread on the coarse side of a grater or whizz it up in a food processor)

100g Caerphilly cheese, grated (I couldn't get Caerphilly - yes, Tesco being crap again - so used some mild Welsh goat's cheese instead and it worked really well)

1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, chopped

1 tablespoon coriander, chopped

1 small leek, finely chopped

Freshly milled salt and black pepper

1 tablespoon whole grain mustard

3 free-range eggs

1 tablespoon plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper

1. Mix 125g of the breadcrumbs with the cheese, fresh herbs and leeks and season well.  Lightly beat 2 eggs with the mustard and combine with the dry ingredients.  Mix until bound together, adding a little milk if necessary.
2. Divide the mixture into 12 and roll into sausages.  Coat the sausages in seasoned flour and chill for at least 20 minutes.
3. Before cooking, beat the remaining egg and using the remaining breadcrumbs, coat each sausage in egg and then breadcrumbs.  To cook, fry the sausages in a little vegetable oil for approximately 10 minutes until golden brown all over.  Serve with Caramelised Red Onion Chutney and a green salad.

Caramelised Red Onion Chutney (from Fraser Doherty's "Super Jam Cookbook") - makes around 2 average-sized jars)

8 red onions

1 red chilli

2 bay leaves

25mls olive oil

200g soft light brown sugar

150mls balsamic vinegar

150mls red wine vingear

Jam pot covers and 2 clean jars with metal lids 

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting and put your jars in (on a baking tray) to warm and sterilise them.
2. Cut your onions and chillis into short, thin slices and put them into a pan with the bay leaves and oil.  Cook gently over a low heat for about 20 minutes.
3. Once the onions are dark and sticky, add the sugar and the vinegars and simmer for 30 minutes or so, until the chutney is thick and dark.
4. Pour the chutney into hot, sterilised jars and cover (for a description of how to cover jars of hot jam or chutney so that you get an airtight seal, see the recipe for Plum and Elderberry Jam).  Ideally, this chutney should be kept for at least a month before eating, in order to allow the flavours to mature.

Jam Sponge (from Sarah Paston-Williams' "Good Old-Fashioned Puddings" - serves 6)

115g (4 oz) unsalted butter (+ 1 teaspoon extra for greasing the bowl)

115g (4 oz) caster sugar

2 free-range eggs

115g (4 oz) self-raising flour

Pinch of salt

1-2 tablespoons of cold milk

3 tablespoons of jam of your choice

A 1 1/2 pint pudding basin (I use one of those heatproof plastic ones with a lid, as they make life a lot easier) 

1. Butter the pudding basin and the inside of its lid thoroughly.
2. Cream the butter and sugar together until pale and fluffy.  Beat eggs a little at a time to the creamed mixture, beating well between each addition.  Sieve the flour and salt together and carefully fold into the mixture using a metal spoon.  Add enough milk to make a soft dropping consistency.
3. Spoon the jam into the buttered basin , then pour on the sponge mixture.  Clip the lid on securely, then steam for 1 1/2 hours until well risen and spongy.  This isn't as difficult as it sounds - put the basin into a suitably-sized saucepan and pour in enough boiling water from the kettle until it comes about 2/3 up the sides of the basin.  Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down to a simmer and put the saucepan lid on.  IMPORTANT - keep checking regularly that the basin isn't boiling dry and top up with more water from the kettle if it looks as if the water level is getting low.
4. Use a wide spatula or similar implement to fish out the pudding basin, remove the lid and turn it out on to a plate.  Serve with custard - and extra jam! 

Quick and Fishy

I have a really bad food shopping habit of snapping up ingredients that I love whenever I see them at knock-down prices, regardless of a) whether or not I've already got plenty in stock at home and b) if the size of the jar or packet is ridiculously large for a household consisting of one person.  I did this again last Thursday when I went to the legendary Winners Bargain Centre in Bicester, which is the sort of place where you go in to buy batteries and come out with catering-sized boxes of tea bags, cling film and enough washing powder to keep a small launderette going for several months.  Amongst the "bargains" I came home with was a stupidly large jar of capers for 99p (and yes, it was still within date, although with Winners you can never be too sure).  I then had to find something to do with them other than put then on top of pizzas with black olives and anchovies (YUM). 

I then found this recipe, which is from "Cooking Outside the Box: the Abel and Cole Cookbook" by Keith Abel.  Abel and Cole are a fantastic, user-friendly organic fruit and vegetable box company, who now also sell storecupboard essentials, bread, meat, vegetarian foods, wine, chocolate and all sorts of other lovely goodies and I recommend them highly.  The measurements may look a bit odd (a glug of this and half a mugful of that) but one of the things I like about this book is that Keith doesn't assume that you have loads of fancy kitchen gadgets or cooking experience (so a good book for beginners as well as people who want to eat food at its seasonal best).  I switched lemon sole for plaice (I live about as far from the sea as it's possible to be and sadly there is no fishmonger's, so it's Tesco or nothing) and it was absolutely delicious.  A good one for when you need to rustle up a really tasty supper and don't have the time or the inclination to spend ages doing so.

Lemon Sole (or Plaice) with Wine, Toasted Almonds and Capers (serves 4)

1/3 mug of flaked almonds
4 lemon sole fillets (I used plaice instead and it was delicious but any white fish would do)
Flour, for dusting the fish
Salt and freshly ground pepper
A glug of olive oil
1/2 mug of dry white wine
1 1/2 tablespoons of capers, chopped
Juice of 1/2 a lemon
Grated zest of a whole lemon
A large knob of butter
A handful of chopped parsley, to serve

1. Start by toasting your almonds in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for about 2-3 minutes, tossing regularly until golden, then remove from the pan.
2. Dust the fish fillets with flour.  Then heat up a good glug of olive oil in a big frying pan for about 2 minutes on each side (SMELLY KITCHEN ALERT - the smell of frying fish really lingers so open all your windows).  Season with salt and pepper, remove the fish from the pan and keep in a warm place.  Unless you have a gargantuan pan, you will probably need to cook the fish in a few batches - not a problem at all.
3. Once the last fish has left the pan, put the wine in the pan and crank up the heat.  Let the wine reduce by half, then add the capers, lemon juice, lemon zest, butter and almonds and give this a good stir until the butter has melted.  Now plate up your fish and spoon over the sauce, sprinkle with parsley (as you can see from the photo, I was so keen to dig in, I forgot all about the parsley) and serve.

The Best Roast Chicken Ever?

I've always been particularly interested in French food, something I've had very little experience of cooking.  This is possibly because of its reputation for being difficult, so I'm trying to overcome this sense of intimidation.

As most of my favourite French dishes (eg: Confit du Canard, Cassoulet, Tarte au Citron) are heart-stoppingly high in fat and/or sugar, it's always mystified me why you never see many obese French people, women especially.  I read a book some years ago called "French Women Don't Get Fat" by Mireille Guiliano, which aimed to explain this.  As I remember, the key reasons for this phenomenon were explained by Mireille as follows (some of these I approve of and some I don't - I'll leave it to you to guess which):

• Portion sizes tend to be smaller in comparison to food in the UK (which seems to be going the way of super-size America).  However, the intense flavours and loving care taken to prepare food mean that your tastebuds are more easily satisfied.
• French people take more time to eat meals and really savour them, not shovelling food down on the hoof or in front of the telly.
• There is a strong salad culture in France and chefs devote the same care and imagination to their preparation as they do with any other dish.
• The French woman's attitude towards the dessert course is to eat one spoonful and then sneak the rest on to their partner's plate (because of course it's OK for men to be fat in France but women taking up room is not on).
• French women are more likely to smoke in lieu of some courses during a meal (although I was surprised to see that the public smoking ban seems to have now reached Paris so it may be less acceptable than previously to chuff away whilst other people are trying to taste their food).

In her book "The Skinny French Kitchen", Harry Eastwood presents a collection of recipes that taste authentically French but which use significantly less fat than in traditionally prepared French food.  I rather like Harry.  She is a bit of a jolly hockey stick (and has a serious Daddy fixation) but her eccentricity is quite endearing (in her last book, "Red Velvet Chocolate Heartache", she ascribed personalities to the various cakes - a fine example of behaviour that in someone less posh or rich, would be described as symptomatic of mental illness).

I was drawn to the following recipe from "The Skinny French Kitchen", partly because Harry has boldly named it "The Best Roast Chicken Ever".  I was intrigued by the fact that it includes lemongrass, which I associate with Thai food rather than French.  Authentically French or not, it is DE-LICIOUS and a good one to knock up when you're cooking to impress.  I served it with very simple boiled new potatoes and a lightly dressed green salad - as it's so packed with flavour, anything else would be overdoing it.  It doesn't sound like a lot of meat for four people but as the stuffing is so tasty, you don't really need much chicken.

The Best Roast Chicken Ever (serves 4 - 332 calories per serving)

1 small free-range chicken, weighing around 1.2 kg

For the stuffing:
1 tablespoon olive oil
200g wild mushrooms eg: ceps, girollesor chanterelle, roughly chopped (I used a packet of dried wild mushrooms, reconstituted in hot water and made the weight up with some chestnut mushrooms, which I figure are a bit more interesting than bog standard button ones)
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
1 stick of lemongrass, finely chopped (my best friend Karen bought me a really good mezzaluna as a Christmas present and it makes light work of chopping something as tough and woody as lemongrass)
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced to a pulp
2 slices proscuttio, finely chopped
1 tablespoon of half-fat creme fraiche
Salt and pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 160 degrees C/325 degrees F/Gas Mark 3.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan until really hot, then add the mushrooms and fry until they are golden.  Set aside.
3. In a large mixing bowl, mix together all the stuffing ingredients, including the warm mushrooms.  Taste, then season thoroughly with pepper and a little salt.

Stuffing ingredients

4. Next, run your fingers between the skin and flesh of the chicken, starting with the breasts and ending up with the legs.  Be gentle as you separate the skin from the flesh - you need to avoid ripping the skin.
5. Spread the stuffing generously all over the flesh of the bird, securing it with the skin so that none runs out (Harry notes that it helps to tie the chicken's legs together).

Frankenchicken

6. Put the chicken in a baking tray at the BOTTOM of the oven and cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour.  (*** IMPORTANT: The aim here is to cook the chicken SLOWLY so that it is cooked right through.  Make sure that the chicken is cooked thoroughly by piercing the thickest part of the thigh with a sharp knife - the juices should run clear, not red or pink.  No blood should ooze from the cavity or underside of the chicken either - if it appears that it's cooking unevenly, cover the chicken with tin foil to stop the breasts from browning too much and give it a little longer.)  Rest for 15 minutes before serving and spoon the juices over as gravy.

The cooked chicken on the only piece of Crown Devon Stockholm tableware that I own (subtle hint for future Christmas presents)

Plum and Elderberry Jam

I love the idea of cooking with ingredients that I've foraged for myself and managed to find both the plums and elderberries used in this recipe growing wild on common land not far from where I live (Richard Mabey's "Food for Free" is probably the best field guide on the subject - now in a handy pocket-sized edition - but for goodness' sake, do be especially careful about eating mushrooms that you come across!).  This recipe is from Fraser Doherty's "Super Jam Cookbook" (sounds like a nice lad, young Fraser -  a sort of teenage jam entrepreneur/geek) and makes me feel like Madame Cholet as I'm cooking it.  OK, she may not have been my favourite Womble (that's Orinoco) but I have to love someone who cooks Dandelion Stew and Bramble Jelly.

You will need several clean jam jars (the sort with metal lids - things like coffee jars with plastic lids are no good) with the labels soaked off and a packet of jam pot covers (available from hardware shops like Robert Dyas and kitchenware specialists like Lakeland).  Jam pot covers tend to come in two sizes (1 lb and 2 lb) - go for the larger ones if the jars you're using are wide-necked (as Bonne Maman ones tend to be).

Plum and Elderberry Jam (makes 3-4 1lb jars)

1kg granulated sugar
900g plums
100g elderberries
Juice of 1 lemon

1. Put a saucer or small plate into the fridge (you'll see why later).  Preheat the oven to its very lowest setting.  Pour the sugar into a baking tray/roasting tin and put it at the bottom of the oven to warm (hot sugar dissolves more quickly).  Put the clean jars (not the lids) on a baking tray on the shelf above.
2. Slit the plums and remove the stones but don't throw them away.  If the plums are large, you may need to chop them into chunks.  Put the plums, their stones (the stones contain a lot of pectin, which is what will help the jam to set), the elderberries and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice to start with into a large heavy saucepan.  Cook the fruit over a low heat for around 20 minutes until softened.
3. Add the warmed sugar to the fruit mixture and gradually bring it to the boil, stirring with a wooden spoon every so often.  Once the jam is boiling, keep it like that for around 5 minutes, making sure it doesn't boil over.  Keep stirring your jam to make sure it doesn't burn on the bottom - it should be starting to thicken.
4. You now need to keep checking your jam from time to time to see if it's starting to set.  Remove the pan from the heat and spoon a small blob on to your cold plate (remember that?). Leave the blob to cool and push it with the side of your finger.  If the sample wrinkles when you push it, it's ready.  If it's still too thin, add a little more lemon juice to the pan, return it to the heat and keep boiling and doing the cold plate test until it's ready.  Use a slotted spoon to fish out the plum stones.
5. Remove your hot clean jars from the oven and spoon or pour in the jam, filling them right up to the top.  A heatproof jug is very useful here, as is a specialist metal jam funnel.  Take care as hot jam is like molten lava and you can get a nasty burn if you're not careful.
6. In your pack of jam pot covers will be some discs of greaseproof paper.  Press one on the surface of each jar of jam (waxy side down), making sure that there are no gaps between the paper and the surface of the jam.  The pack will also contain cellophane discs.  Wet the centre of each one with a dab of water and place it (damp side up) over the jar of jam.  Secure in place with an elastic band - as the jam cools down, the cellophane disc will contract, forming an airtight seal.  Done properly, this will prevent mould forming on the jam and it will keep for at least a couple of years unopened.
7. Last but not least, sterilise the metal lids by putting them in a small pan of water and bringing to the boil before draining, thoroughly wiping dry and using to secure the jars.  Don't forget to label your jars with the contents and the date it was made.

Hubble bubble ...

The finished jam (named after the scrumping location)

Tru-Blood Sorbet

It's REALLY hot outside.  I've always wondered how goths stay cool in hot weather, wearing all that black.(Incidentally, did you know that goths have the lowest life satisfaction level, with the exception of traffic wardens?).  The joke response to this is "eating blood slushies" - which leads me neatly on to this recipe.

I found this Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall recipe after being given some redcurrants and wanting to make something a bit different with them.  It's just equal quantities of raspberries and redcurrants pulped (whizzed up in a blender or mashed with a potato masher), sieved to remove the pips, sweetened with icing sugar at a ratio of 4:1 fruit to sugar and then frozen.  It tastes wonderfully refreshing on a hot day and I ended up re-naming it Tru-Blood Sorbet because the beautiful ruby red colour and slightly gloopy texture looks like the eponymous synthethic blood substitute favoured by idealised vampire boyfriend Bill in vampire porn TV series "True Blood" (a guilty pleasure of mine).  Enjoy.

Tru-Blood (Raspberry & Redcurrant) Sorbet

500g raspberries
500g redcurrants
250g icing sugar

1) Mash the fruit up (either in a blender or give it a good whacking with a potato masher). 
2) Put a large sieve (preferably a nylon one as a) it's finer and b) a metal one will react with the acid in the fruit) over a large bowl and tip in the mashed fruit.  Use a large spatula or spoon to push the fruit through the sieve, leaving you with fruit puree in the bowl and just pips left in the sieve.
3) Whisk the icing sugar into the fruit puree until dissolved.  Pour into an ice cream maker and churn until frozen before decanting into a container suitable for the freezer and freeze until needed.  If you don't have an ice cream maker, you can serve this as a granita - just pour into a container and freeze and rake it into shards with a sturdy fork before serving.